I saw a dude with a surfboard today walking, with purpose, down 6th avenue around 32nd street. I wonder if he was coming or going. The board looked well used, sun-bleached and the leash was neatly wrapped around the back fins. It was so wonderfully incongruent with its surroundings that I broke into a wide smile and have been in the best mood since I saw it.
I want to surf again. Feel that moment of pure magic when the wave lifts (and on rare occasions) I can smoothly pop up from an “upward facing dog” to a “squat” to standing and successfully execute a neat turn or two. And then, as the shore comes closer, while still in control, get back down and paddle back out to the line (and my instructor.) Doesn’t that equal me surfing! Right?
I’m very much a beginner surfer but love it. In the 14 months since I was last on a surfboard I’ve thought of it often, and lately a lot. It may have started when I bought the new Pearl Jam Album, Backspacer, (err, paid to download it from itunes.) From my first listen my favorite song has been Amongst The Waves (lyrics or live performance) and I’ve listened to it daily since then. I was thrilled when Eddie introduced it as a “love song for surfers” at the show in Philadelphia.
Sadly, the only thing I’m likely to surf today is the internet and the tv, but one day I will be get out there again.