Archive for the ‘travel’ Category

Inca Trail

I just finished reading Mark Adams’ wonderful book “Turn Right at Machu Picchu” but I wish he had written it before my trek in 2007. I prepared by reading very dry accounts of both Bingham’s ‘discovery’ and a history of the Incas. Mark’s book hits on all the highlights and had me laughing out loud in public ala Bill Bryson’s A Walk In The Woods.

I also prepared for my trek by going to the gym with a backpack filled with weights and walking as uphill as far as the treadmill would go in an effort to simulate walking in the mountains with my pack. It would have been a better simulation had I also put a plastic bag over my head to mimic the lack of oxygen at that altitude. Thankfully, I didn’t suffer too badly from the altitude while trekking for which I give thanks to the coca tea and the coca leaves we chewed.

Reading the descriptions of his trek(s) I remembered mine. The walk is just simply breathtakingly beautiful, and it was mind boggling to think about how ancient the roads was and how they built all the structures we encountered. My trip was a taken in the spirit of a personal journey to challenge myself physically to do a trek. It was fantastic, exhausting, beautiful and exhilarating. And it is a mysterious place.

They say the trail is crowded, and at points I’d agree, but mostly it was just our little group trouping along. Occasionally we ran into another group of 10. I would HIGHLY recommend our tour group, United Mice, our guide was Sol and she was incredible. Our trek was timed slightly differently than other companies and our hardest day was the second. This may be what kept us on a different pace. And best of all when we got Winaywayna we had it to ourselves which was indescribable.

Now that I’ve gone back to look at some of my pictures from the trip I thought I’d share them here:

llama

First Accomplishment not being run over by Llamas

DeadWomanPass

After completing the climb up Dead Woman’s Pass, at 9am, we first gave Pachamama then ourselves a fortifying shot of Peruvian Rum

Cloud Reflection

Cloud Reflections

Sayacmarca

Sayamarca

CampChaquicocha

Camp Chaquicocha

SolidRockTunnel

Solid Rock Tunnel

Puyupatamarca

Puyupatamarca

Winaywayna

I LOVED the Winaywayna Site

Winaywayna

Winaywayna

Winaywayna

Winaywayna

Winaywayna

Winaywayna

sungate

And We Arrived. My only regret my shot of the Staircase From Hell didn’t workout.

llama picchu

And I Was Afraid I Wouldn’t See Llamas Up Here – Ha.

classic machu picchu

Classic Shot.

wall

Corner of The Crazy Sided Block

2 llama picchu

Two Llamas!

grounds

The Complex

feet

Time to Retire These Shoes

Travel Book Hoarding

travel books

A few weeks ago I had to have a contractor shore up one of my kitchen cabinets which was starting to hang at a precipitous angle…. I blamed it on the earthquake last summer, because it was shortly after that I had noticed the slanting had begun. The contractor blamed it on the weight of all those cookbooks I had shelved on top of it. Harrumph.

I had to find a new spot for the cookbooks, and ultimately settled on putting them under the cabinet, on the top of the fridge. In doing so I was forced to pare down a few cookbooks in order to fit them into the new space. My first thought was to find space on one of my bookshelves. This didn’t prove to be promising and I opted to give away a few of the cookbooks.

I bring all this up because as I had stared at my shelves the one category of books that seemed to scream “give me away” were the old worn travel books. But I couldn’t part with them, despite a firm belief I would never use a single one of them again. My most recent trips have all been somewhat short and so 100% researched online and socially. So, when I read in today’s Shelf Awareness that Bowker found “World Travelers Still Print-Bound” I was both a little surprised and comforted. I do like my travel books.

And when I set out to plan the next big adventure I’m sure I’ll be consulting Lonely Planet, DK, National Geographic, Fodors and/or The Rough Guide. But I’m equally sure that when I pack for that adventure the space in my bag formerly reserved for a guidebook, is definitely going to be a way to give the invariably strained zippers on my luggage a sigh of relief. Or I will pack an extra unnecessary pair of shoes. The reference material I take with me will absolutely be digital.

And yet that shelf featuring the 1992 Let’s Go Europe isn’t going anywhere.

 

 

 

 

Snapshot from the Backlist

surfer boy on bike samara beach costa rica

Samara Beach, Costa Rica

After trudging around in the muck I was thinking about warm glorious sunshine, squishing clean sand beneath my toes, and glorious blue water on the horizon.

2004 Journey to Costa Rica. This image was taken on weekday afternoon at Samara Beach.

Samara Beach, in our experience, was a sleepy town on the Nicoya Peninsula. There was a single ramshackle restaurant/bar/internet cafe. If my memory serves me correctly the local definition of Internet Cafe was defined as a single computer with a dial up connection.

It’s Not About The Tapas by Polly Evans

I just finished “It’s Not About The Tapas” by Polly Evans. I’m a fan of arm chair travel and this was a fun book. Well, truth be told, I’m a fan of traveling and sometimes you have to settle for someone else’s adventures from the comfort of your own armchair.

I remember how much I enjoyed reading Kiwi’s May Fly, Polly’s adventures in New Zealand and I thought she’d have made a fun companion throughout my own (mis)adventures in New Zealand. Once again I completely enjoyed Polly’s writing and revisiting Spain through her eyes. She manages to combine history, trivial facts, tasty details of her meals, tourist tips and a hilarious account of her trials and tribulations cycling 1000 miles across Spain. Prior to getting the idea of cycling across Spain she had not really been a cyclist. I have to admire her gumption.

My trip(s) through Spain never included any bicycling, although the Tour D’France was a thorn in my side this past July in Girona, I related to a lot of her adventures: less than stellar pensione accommodations, paying a street musician to go away, the sheer enjoyment of life in Spain, and the bats making noises in the trees all night. I was also reminded of the food (I wish I could arrange for both a nice glass of Rioja and some tapas right now) from fresh orange juice to churros and hot chocolate.

If you’ve been to Spain, if you want to go to Spain, if you’ve ever considered cycling by yourself across a foreign country, and/or you enjoy laughing out loud in public places I recommend reading “It’s Not About The Tapas” by Polly Evans.

Adventures in the Amazon

I just finished reading “The Lost City of Z.” It was a great adventure story within an adventure story. The author, journalist David Grann becomes obsessed with the fate of long missing explorer Percy Fawcett. Fawcett disappeared while searching for a hidden civilization within the Amazonian Rain Forest.

As I read about battling hardship after hardship in the jungle I couldn’t help thinking about how you could now get a taste of the Amazon with very little discomfort. In fact, you could be quite pampered. Before my trip I worried a little about things I could contract like malaria or parasites but I made sure I was inoculated. Then as we sorted out our flights I learned to worry about the flight path of Condors. And I may have had a few irrational moments worrying about the many harmless bugs that scare me. But at no time did it seriously cross my mind that I could be attacked by spear wielding natives. Although I did get the opportunity to learn using a blow dart gun is not easy.

It was an amazing few days in the Amazon, and we had a fantastic guide. We chose Explorama and I would have no hesitation recommending them.

But back to the book, if you’re interested in armchair adventure, history and culture I highly recommend reading “The Lost City of Z.”

Umbrellas

I drove through the city yesterday, the gale force winds that came with the unending rain turned Manhattan into a graveyard of dead umbrellas. They were all over the road, a bit like roadkill.

It made me think of a picture I took of an installation at the Venice Art Biennale in 1995:

Endurance

The Inca Trail has been on my mind lately. First, a friend told me it was mentioned on a (crappy) tv show she knows I DVR and had I seen it yet, I have now. Second, I was looking at a question on an application that brought the trail to mind.

So, I’ve been thinking about the Inca Trail. The first thing that comes to mind is just how beautiful it was up high in the Andes. The second thing that comes to mind is how the six of us in the group made such a great team. And the third thing is the memory of moments in peaceful solitude – when I lagged behind, with my camera as a visible excuse.

I am also thinking about how slowly, step by step and with each lungful of (thin) air, I accomplished something. The trail ends at Machu Picchu. It is an amazing place to see with your own eye and exploring the site is tremendous. However, for me the journey to get there was worth more than checking a landmark off the list.

Truth be told, it was a less iconic ruin I enjoyed more. My group had Winay Wayna all to ourselves for hours, and we wandered around it freely to our heart’s content.

I remember sitting inside a “room” noticing that far below was the river we started trekking beside and just above we could see the mountain called Machu Picchu – around which in the morning lay our destination. I liked how you could see how far we’d come, how close the end was.

I always love the journey, the adventure is fun, and with this job search stuff I just wish I could see where it ends. I’m ready for the next chapter – and excited to start it whatever it is.